Reprinted from issue May 2009 Buying Guide

90 Points
Roessler 2007 “Estate” Big Bend Estate Chardonnay (Carneros); $32. Tired of oaky fruit bomb chards? This one’s notable for structure. Crisp acidity and a firm streak of minerals undergird the grilled pineapple, cinnamon apple sauce and buttered toast flavors. Drink this elegant wine now. – S.H.

93 Points
Roessler 2006 Savoy Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley); $46. The Savoy Vineyard is one of the best in Anderson Valley. In capable hands like Roessler’s, it yields classic California coastal Pinot Noir. This ’06 is young and tight in acidity, but explosive flavors, swamping the mouth with wild cherries, orange peel, red licorice, beef jerky and other savory umami flavors. Just delicious, but young. Best 2009-2012. – S.H.

90 Points
Roessler 2006 Hein Family Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley); $46. Very Big, very dry and powerful, a Pinot that explodes with lush cherry jam, red current, chocolate and spice flavors wrapped into a tannic and frankly acidic young wine. If you pop the cork now, give it a good decant. – S.H.

90 Points
Roessler 2006 La Encantada Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills); $46. The vineyard is Rich Sanford’s, in the tenderloin of the southern part of the appellation. It’s an impressive wine, bright and pure in fruity cherries and black raspberries, and brisk in acidity, but it’s immature. Needs time. Best after 2009, and better 2010-2012. Cellar Selection. – S.H.

90 Points
Roessler 2006 “Estate” Ridges Ollie & Hazel’s Block Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast); $56. Tough and gritty in youth, this Pinot is showing edgy tannins, tart acidity and unincorporated oak. It’s almost like a barrel sample. But it’s stuffed with currant, licorice and mocha flavors, and should develop well in the bottle. Try after 2009. – S.H.